Contrast, Coya and Polichinelle, these are the three Parisian restaurants that everyone will be talking about this fall. Here’s why each is exceptional.
They were once is neighboring offices on rue du Faubourg-Poissonnière, now Christophe Michalak and Steve Burggraf are partners. The pastry chef and the founder of the Big Fernand hamburger chain will open Polichinelle in l’hôtel Yooma Urban Lodge, in the 15th arrondissement, in mid-September. It’s an elevated buffet eating experience driven by a menu centered on plants: only vegetables grown in the largest urban vegetable garden in France and cooked in the kitchen by Alexandre Marchon-Mussat. On the menu: egg parfait, smoked eggplant caviar, bok choy cabbage, oyster leaf, smoked almonds; cold ratatouille, zucchini flowers, raw carrots, Kalamata olives, parmesan shortbread; stuffed tomatoes, black rice, fried kale, parmesan-cresson sauce; apricot clafoutis with pistachio cream. — Polichinelle, 51 quai de Grenelle, 75015 Paris. Menu here
It’s the first address in France. After London, Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Monaco, Coya arrived in Paris on September 6. The South American collective joins Beaupassage, an upscale alley of French gastronomy, launched in 2018, by moving into what was once an old church. A 700-square-meter, completely transformed space spanning two floors, Coya consists of a restaurant, a ceviche counter, a Pisco bar and an impressive terrasse. From colorful paintings lining the walls to vibrant music, you’ll plunge into the Inca universe. This fusional culinary melting pot brings together the power of Peru, the authenticity of Japan and the tradition of China on a single plate. A life-changing food experience is guaranteed with the creations of the historic chef Sanjay Dwivedi interpreted by Roland Puse: tuna tartar, caviar osciètre, soy; Chilean sea bass, rice, lime, chilli pepper; spicy beef fillet, crispy shallots, aji, star anise; red fruit granita and purple corn, meringue, raspberry sorbet. — Coya, 53-57 rue de Grenelle, 75007 Paris. Menu here.
For Stéphane Manigold, there is just something about the number 18 in Paris. After opening Substance at 18 rue de Chaillot in October 2018, Stéphane Manigold inaugurated Contraste at 18 rue d’Anjou on September 9. The 39-year-old restaurateur, who dazzled the taste buds of All Paris with his first establishment in the 16th arrondissement with a kitchen run by the promising Matthias Marc, is back with a pair of 20-somethings, Kevin de Porre and Erwan Ledrul, in the 8th arrondissement. These childhood friends with star-studded resumes — Plaza Athénée and Kei for the former, Le Meurice and Lasserre for the latter — are about to dazzle in the restaurant designed by Michel Amar. A cocoon of green and black marble accented with leather, where the young pair will assemble artful dishes in the open kitchen. Their best creations? Farm egg, river eggs, beetroot; octopus, soubressade, parmesan; saint-pierre, leeks, boudin seasoning; bellota pig, oysters, piquillos; vine peach, arugula, pepper; mirabelles, verjus and grasses. On the wine side, Manigold is collaborating with the emblematic Anselme Selosse for the impressive list of champagnes and wines. — Contraste, 18 rue d’Anjou, 75008, Paris.
This article was first published on Le Point.