Parisians are, and always have been, extremely pet-friendly. France’s long tradition of dog lovers includes Empress Joséphine, Colette, Sarah Bernhardt, Victor Hugo, and Émile Zola, whose dog Pinpin reportedly died of heartbreak following the writer’s exile. Jean-Paul Belmondo was rarely seen without his pet, while Alain Delon had more than 50 dogs over the course of his life. And of course, there was Brigitte Bardot, whose passion for animal welfare turned her home into a refuge for dogs and helped establish her as one of the world’s best-known advocates for animals. Then there are the Impressionist painters and their pets, a list so large it’s actually the subject of at least one book!
Those of you who have pets know how much joy our furry friends add to life. So you can imagine how much fun visiting Paris with your pet can be. The abundance of green spaces, pet-friendly restaurants, shops, and pet services makes Paris one of the best cities in Europe to travel with your pet. Here are some of our tips for exploring Paris with your pet in tow.
Dog-Friendly Restaurants in Paris
In one of the world’s capitals of cuisine and café culture, it’s heartening to know that dogs are welcome at countless restaurants and cafés. In fact, the first thing a server will likely ask is if you’d like a bowl of water for your pet!
It’s advisable to begin by scoping out strategic seating. For example, bistro banquets are ideal for a small pet to nestle under while humans eat and socialize, whereas corners and alcoves can be practical way to avoid your pet getting under foot at a busy restaurant. If you’re eating at an outdoor terrace, on the other hand, you might want to bring a discreet mat for your pet to hunker down on (and to keep them from straying to neighboring tables in search of fallen food).
For lunch or an afternoon tea and dessert break, check out Le Loir dans la Théière in the Marais district, which serves up wonderful homestyle cooking and features an eye-popping dessert counter overflowing with pies and cakes. The bistro’s eclectic layout creates a cool casual vibe, while offering plenty of nooks, crannies, and corners for your dog to settle in. When in the 1st arrondissement, take a stroll with your pet in the Palais Royal garden, where your pet can meet other dogs and you can enjoy a café at La Crème du Palais Royal.
Paris has a growing number of pet-themed cafés where the two as well as four-legged can enjoy refreshment. Le Bone Appart near Place des Vosges is an adorable spot chock full of doggie toys and mats strewn about, and it serves up good coffee and pastries for us humans. Casa del Doggo in the tony 16th arrondissement bills itself as Paris’s first boulangerie for dogs, serving up dog “desserts” and beverages. If Montmartre is on your itinerary, you can stop in at Barkers & Brothers café, groomers, and pet supply shop to enjoy coffee, hot chocolate, and pastries while your pet laps up a puppuccino.
Paris Museum Hopping with Pets
Paris is one of the world’s most museum-dense cities, but unfortunately dogs aren’t allowed in any of them. But no need to fret—there are ways to take in the culture when visiting Paris with your pooch. One great alternative is to check out some of the city’s thousand-plus private art galleries, many of which allow dogs. You can enjoy extraordinary contemporary art and photography at galleries such as Hauser & Worth in the 8th arrondissement, or Galerie Grès and Perrotin in the Marais.
Sightseeing with Pets in Paris
Anyone who’s been to Paris knows that one of the city’s greatest pleasures is simply walking—an activity we often share with our dogs anyway. Strolling grand boulevards, winding through age-old lanes, crossing magnificent bridges, walking the Seine’s banks, and stumbling upon off‑the‑beaten‑path discoveries with your pet make for a lovely way to experience the City of Light.
When you’re in the mood for more organized sightseeing, there are terrific dog-friendly guided walking tours to take with your toutou (doggy). Joon Tours (named for tour guide founder Amir’s own dog) offers small group tours “designed for dogs traveling with their human companions.”
There are tours with lots of walking for highly active dogs, while older dog tours will include additional R&R stops and a van to shuttle between destinations. Most tours will include a stop at a dog café, and if weather permits, a lawn picnic, so that your pet can romp while you chomp. StrollsParis has a number of pet-friendly guided tours organized by neighborhood, including the Marais, Montmartre, and the Latin Quarter. Their Islands in the Seine tour is an immersive journey into the history of Paris, taking in the Pont Neuf, Île Saint Louis, Île de la Cité, and Notre Dame, where StrollsParis owner Pamela Breit and her Coton de Tulear pup, Bisou will keep your dog company while you visit the cathedral interior.
Dog-Friendly Parks & Gardens in Paris
Paris has more than 500 parks and small neighborhood gardens. While not all of them allow dogs, many of those that do require them to remain on a leash and stay off the grass. The Paris Tourist Office provides a helpful list of dog-friendly greenspaces that can assist you in planning your excursions.
The city is also flanked by two vast forests—both former royal hunting preserves—covering more than 4,500 acres. That’s over five times the size of Central Park!
On the east is the Bois de Vincennes, accessible via the last stop on the number 1 Metro line. The park is home to the 14th-century Château de Vincennes, a former royal residence. While dogs are not permitted inside the castle, just behind it stretches the Allée Royale, a nearly mile-long open meadow that has become a canine paradise. It’s such a perfect dog spot that we occasionally make the trip with our Pomsky when he needs as much grass under his paws as possible.
Bois de Vincennes also has dozens of walking trails, ranging from an eight-mile hike around the entire forest, to a 1.2-mile stroll circling the Lac Daumesnil (one of the two park lakes with dog-friendly rowboats to rent). You can also take your pup to visit La Grande Pagode, which houses the largest Buddha in Europe.
There’s no shortage of nearby restaurant terraces to stop and eat at with your dog. La Flottille on the border of Grand Canal behind the Château de Vincennes serves up spectacular crepes and galettes. Meanwhile Ladurée—world-famous for their macarons—has converted a charming 19th-century hunting lodge into the romantic Pavillon Gravelle, a sublime salon de thé.
As with the forest at Vincennes, the Bois de Boulogne is also a former royal hunting ground, redesigned as a public park under Napoleon III in the mid-19th century, and the space is extremely dog-friendly. Other spacious dog-friendly parks worth checking out include the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont and Parc de la Villette (both in the 19th arrondissement), Parc Montsouris (14th arrondissement), and the lovely, manicured Parc Monceau (17th arrondissement), to name a few. These tend to be preferable to Paris’s relatively rare Espace Canins (dog runs) which, except for the ones at Bois de Vincennes and Bois de Boulogne, tend to be quite small, dirty, and not particularly inviting.
Shopping with Your Pet in Paris
Except for shops that sell or handle food for off-premises consumption, most stores in Paris welcome dogs. (Technically, you aren’t supposed to bring them into boulangeries or patisseries either, but we’ve only been turned away a few times in the past six years.) The big department stores like Printemps, Galeries Lafayette or Bon Marché are great places to shop with a pet. You can browse every imaginable category in one place, there are plenty of food options, and if it’s summertime, there’s even AC!
Whether to beat the heat, get out of the rain, or simply wander, window shop, and eat, strolling the many wonderful covered shopping arcades of Paris is another ideal way to enjoy Paris with your pet.
Unfortunately, dogs are not allowed into supermarkets, and while some people tie their pets to a ring outside, with dog theft rising in Paris, it is NOT advisable! Luckily, dogs are welcome at primeurs (green grocers) and neighborhood marchés (street markets), which are after all one of the highlights of the Paris experience.
Pet-Friendly Paris Hotels
Hôtel Plaza Athénée makes good on their claim that “your four-legged companions are always welcome,” with services such as pet meals, cooked on-site, available for room service. For a lovely pet-friendly boutique hotel in a great location and with impeccable service there’s also the Hôtel Recamier just off of Boulevard Saint Germain.
On the first Sunday of every month, the elegant Kimpton St. Honoré, just minutes from Opera Garnier, hosts Le Doggy Brunch, featuring plated dog treats and an assortment of dog toys. There’s even a dog-sitter on hand to free you up a bit while you enjoy chef Nicolas Pastot’s terrific cuisine. The hotel’s concierge can provide helpful advice on dog-friendly activities, and make reservations at pet-friendly restaurants.
Taking Your Pet on the Paris Metro
Getting around Paris with your pet is very doable by metro, bus, tramway, taxi, or car service as long as you follow the rules (sort of). The metro, which allows dogs on-leash, is the most pet-friendly means of public transportation in Paris. If you have a small pet, it’s advisable to have them sit on your lap.
Small dogs are also allowed on buses, where the rules are stricter than on the metro, and often up to the driver’s discretion. One of the advantages of traveling by bus is the pleasure of watching Paris unfold through the window, an awesome experience for us humans, and one that many dogs find calming. It’s best to take your dog in your arms when boarding the bus, showing the driver you’re in control of your pet, while making an eye level connection which often elicits a smile and a kind remark.
Uber can be a convenient option for getting around; however, since Paris taxis are allowed to use designated taxi/bus lanes, they can often save you from spending time stuck in traffic. At a taxi stand only about one out of five drivers will accept a pet. That’s why I recommend downloading the G7 Paris Taxi app, which saves you from hunting for a taxi and allows you to select the “Pet-friendly” option. Note that this option doesn’t appear on the main landing page but in a separate “options” section whose button appears at the bottom of the screen after you’ve entered your destination.
Pet Supply Shops in Paris
You’re never far from a pet supply shop in Paris. Moustaches (which means “whiskers” in French) and Animalis are two large reliable chains with multiple outlets. However, every neighborhood has smaller owner-operated places with a more local vibe where you’ll be able to interact with local dog people and receive truly personalized service and advice. Strike up a conversation with the staff or owner for great tips and recommendations on dog-friendly stuff to do and places visit nearby. Folks like Nanette, the American owner of the charming Chez Le Chien dog boutique in the 17th arrondissement are an invaluable source of information on the Paris dog scene.
Dog Sitting Services in Paris
There are a number of dog-sitting services you can book to look after your pet when you want to take in a concert or museum. Some of the dog-friendly tour guides, like Joon Tours, will pet sit while the humans visit a museum on a tour. There’s also no shortage of dog sitter marketplace platforms like Rover out there, but if you feel more comfortable entrusting your pet to someone through personal recommendations (as we do), asking local vets and pet supply shops is a great way to find someone. There are also some multi-purpose pet places, like Merci Murphy in the 9th arrondissement, which offers a dog wellness center, crèche (doggy daycare), spa, and even training and grooming facilities.
Tips for Visiting Paris with a Pet
Don’t leave home without: a water gourde (or pliable drinking bowl), some chewie toys, a dog mat (great for restless dogs in restaurants), an extra-long leash for parks, and a carrier or dog backpack (for situations that may require one, like certain public transportation options).
It’s advisable to download a pet travel App like monchienenvoyage.fr, emmène ton chien (bring your dog), or BringFido (for lodging options).
For car service, download the G7 taxi app to access reliable local cabs.
Create a list of pet supply stores and veterinary clinics near where you’ll be staying in Paris. (Besides their primary purposes, these can be invaluable resources for finding pet services and activities.)
It’s best to call the places on your itinerary in advance to verify days/hours of operation and if they welcome pets, as business websites may not always be accurate.
Philip Ruskin is an External Lecturer (ESSEC Bus. School), Consultant (food & travel marketing), writer, drummer and regular contributor to Frenchly. He loves to bike around his adopted hometown of Paris. Find him here, on Instagram. All photographs by the author, except where indicated.
