Paris is full of famous sites to visit, so it’s only natural that smaller places might get lost in the shuffle. But whether you’re a reader, a researcher, or just a weary traveler looking for a place to sit and connect to free wifi, Paris’s public libraries shouldn’t be overlooked.
The History of Paris’s Libraries
The City of Light has long been home to some impressive libraries, but for centuries, these were private collections that belonged to wealthy bibliophiles or prestigious institutions. Average people rarely had access to them, and books in general were fairly pricey commodities until around the 19th century.
Still, one less fortunate population has seemingly always had access to Paris’s libraries. The term “rat de bibliothèque” (“library rat”) is the French equivalent to our “bookworm.” The critters that inspired these names have dwelt in libraries for a long time.
Although it has its roots in the 19th century, it wasn’t until 1941 that the Paris public library system as we know it today was established. As of this writing, there are 57 public lending libraries in Paris, and a total of 3.5 million documents in the library system.
While some Paris public libraries are housed in breathtaking architectural gems, most are found in run-of-the-milll locales. (Then again, as any true rat de bibliothèque knows, a large number of books under the same roof is a breathtaking sight unto itself.)
The Different Kinds of Public Libraries in Paris
There are two main categories of public libraries in Paris.
The first is the bibliothèque de prêt (lending library). This category is what our article is primarily concerned with. You’ll find these throughout the city.
A subcategory of the bibliothèques de prêt is the bibliothèque de jeunesse (children’s library). As its name suggests, this type of library will mostly have books, periodicals, and other resources for children and teens. As a general rule, unless you have a kid with you, it’s not a great spot to stop in to use the wifi—unaccompanied adults tend to get the stink-eye.
The other category of Paris public libraries is the bibliothèque specialisée et patriomoniale. There are 15 of these kinds of libraries in Paris. They’re specialized libraries whose collections can consist of textbooks, books, and other resources focused on particular subjects, and even centuries-old books and documents. You can visit them and peruse their collections for free on-site, but you can’t borrow books or documents from a bibliothèque specialisée et patriomoniale.
University & National Libraries
You could say that there’s yet another category of Paris libraries that are kind of public. These are libraries that might be tied to universities or other institutions, but are open to the general public. They include the Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève, the Bibliothèque Mazarine, and the Bibliotheque Nationale Richelieu. All three are as famous for their prestigious collections as they are for their architecture.
You can’t check out books or documents from these libraries, and visiting them isn’t always as easy as getting into one of Paris’s public libraries, but they’re still very much worth a look.
For the Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève, for example, anyone who wants to peruse the library’s collection has to be 18 or older (or hold a university degree) and complete a sign-up application. Even if you just want to peek in at the building’s beautiful 19th century interior with its ironwork arch-lined ceiling, you have to reserve a time slot online.
Fortunately, it’s a bit easier to visit the Bibliothèque Mazarine. Housed in the majestic Collège des Quatre-Nations building, where you’ll also find the Institut de France, this library’s 17th century columns and decor elements, and the spines of the countless lovely old books on its shelves, make for a truly charming sight. Some areas and documents are open and available to the public, including the main reading room and temporary exhibit space. Just make sure you’re there during visiting hours.
The Bibliothèque Nationale site Richelieu is another story (and a personal favorite). Quite possibly the most stunning library in Paris, it’s tied to France’s national library, and housed in what was once the palace of Cardinal Mazarin, powerful minister of Louis XIII and Louis XIV. The entire building and its pretty courtyard are worth visiting (there’s even a museum full of treasures from throughout French history), but the star of the show for most people is the Salle Ovale (Oval Room). Free to access, unlike some other parts of the site, this enormous room measures 43.7 meters (143.37 feet) by 32.8 meters (107.61 feet), with a ceiling that sits 18 meters (59 feet) above the many bookshelves and reading tables. It was built between 1897 and 1932, and used to be a reference library and reading room. After a six-year renovation, it reopened in 2022 with an additional, family-friendly role. Today, you’ll find everything here, from academic resources and rare tomes to children’s books. It’s also home to a collection of iconic comic books, as well as an impressive manga collection. There’s something really special about sitting in that huge, high-ceilinged, majestic room and still feeling cozy among the books, watching kids running past or reading with their parents, and students taking notes at tables with classic green-shaded lamps.
How to Use Paris’s Public Libraries
You may think that Paris’s public libraries are only a resource for locals, but they actually welcome just about anyone.
For instance, you don’t have to be a Paris resident or even a French or European citizen to get a Paris library card. All you need is a valid form of ID, including a foreign passport.
You can get a Paris public library card from any branch, and regardless of which library issues your card, you’ll be able to check out books from any public lending library in Paris.
With some exceptions, including new releases, you can borrow most books for 4 weeks, with the possibility of renewing them two times in a row (unless another user has reserved them). The same rule goes for CDs and DVDs, although you’ll have to pay a yearly fee to borrow these (around 60€).
If you don’t read French, you may wonder what good a Paris library card would do. But many Paris library branches have at least a small collection of books in other languages. The most common of these are books in English, but, depending on the branch, you may also find a selection of books in additional languages, including Spanish, German, Arabic, and Japanese.
In terms of the English-language book collections at Paris public libraries, you can typically find both classics and works of contemporary literature in all sorts of genres. At a Paris library branch near me, for instance, you can find everything from Dickens to recent literary fiction releases to thrillers, and even a saucy romance or two.
Some Paris libraries also have collections for visually impaired readers, including large print books and Braille, as well as tactile books for children, alongside resources for hearing impaired members.
If you prefer or need to use e-books, you can also rent e-readers and borrow e-books from the French public library system.
If you don’t have an advanced French reading level, not to worry. Most libraries have children’s books and early reader books on offer, and there’s no restrictions for adults who’d like to check those out.
Speaking of which, if you want to improve your French in general, many Paris libraries also have language learning resources you can check out or use on-site.
Paris’s public libraries also go the extra mile when it comes to being a part of the community. Most of them host clubs, lectures, and other events. Some also regularly feature exhibitions of everything from old photos to contemporary art. Anyone can participate in these events, even if they don’t have a library card.
You can find out what’s on at the library branch closest to you by visiting the Paris public lending libraries website, which also has an English version.
The site isn’t perfect. For instance, the search function can sometimes be a bit hit or miss, especially if you’re using it for foreign language books, but overall it’s a really convenient and informative resource. Not only will it let you find out if the Paris public library system has a particular book, but you can also see which branches have said book in their collections, and whether or not it’s currently available. You can also reserve a book and renew books you’ve already checked out.
No matter how you feel about books or libraries in general, there’s another major reason why Paris’s public libraries are worth “checking out.” Anyone can enter a Paris public library, member or not. They’re a good, free place to sit and rest for a minute, take shelter from the rain, or find a bathroom to use. You can also use the free wifi, or hop on one of their computers for 15 minutes (or up to 2 hours if you’re a member).
Things to Keep in Mind About Paris Public Libraries
As much as I love Paris’s public libraries, they do have some downsides.
For one thing, they’re usually only open for a few hours on a given day, mainly during work hours. A typical Paris library branch will open at around 1pm and close at 6 or 7pm. There are some exceptions—for example, many libraries will open earlier or be open for longer on Wednesdays, a day when French schools close at 11:30 am (although many French kids will stay for lunch and an after school program). Some libraries also have longer weekend hours (although many are closed on Sundays).
One way Paris libraries’ limited hours can make things especially challenging is when it comes to returning your books or anything else you’ve checked out. Unfortunately, due to rising concerns about things like bomb threats and vandalism over the years, the libraries no longer have working book return drops, so you can only return your borrowed material during opening hours. Sometimes, I have to renew books, not because I haven’t finished them but because I can’t schedule a time to go return them.
Another issue you might come across is strikes. Like many people in France, librarians also go on strike, which means there might not be enough staff available to keep regular hours. Libraries also occasionally close for maintenance or other organizational issues.
With all of this in mind, it’s a good idea to check the Paris public libraries website to see if your branch is open before you go, especially if you’ll be carrying heavy books to return.
Another downside to the Paris public library system is that books aren’t transferred between branches. So if there’s a book you want that’s in a library in another arrondissement, you can’t ask for it to be sent to your local branch—you’ll have to go get it yourself. There is one exception, though: If you see on the Paris public libraries website that a book you want is in the réserve centrale (a sort of central depository for some of the library’s collections that aren’t on the shelves), you can have it sent to your closest library branch.
Yet another inconvenience of Paris public libraries, depending on your preferred temperature, is that they’re usually way too hot. This isn’t just in summer, but all year long, and it goes for big libraries as well as small ones. I’ve rarely, if ever, been in a Paris library that wasn’t a bit too warm. Even the huge Salle Ovale gets so hot that it has actual air vents you can stand by to cool down. It seems like librarians tend to want to keep the heat turned to the max. So when you visit a branch, if you’re not frileux or frileuse (someone who easily gets cold), try to wear layers or light clothes if you can.
Still, all of these disadvantages are far outweighed by the many positives.
The Most Beautiful Public Libraries in Paris
Some Paris public library locations come with a bonus: gorgeous architecture. These are a few of the ones worth visiting just for the building itself.
Bibliothèque Forney
The Bibliothèque Forney sets itself apart from other Paris public libraries in a few ways. One is that it’s a hybrid lending and specialized research library (its collections focus on decorative arts and advertising). But the most notable thing that makes it stand out is that it’s housed in an actual little castle! Well, technically, it’s 15th century mansion, known as the Hôtel de Sens, which has a fascinating history that includes a long visit from Nostradamus, and the murder of one of Marguerite de Valois (La Reine Margot)’s lovers on the street just in front of the entryway (while Marguerite looked on in horror). But it looks like a castle, and many areas inside still boast Renaissance- and medieval-style architectural touches. At times, it feels like you’re at Hogwarts.
Bibliothèque de l’Hôtel de Ville
Located inside Paris’s Hôtel de Ville (City Hall), the Bibliothèque de l’Hôtel de Ville is a specialized research library that houses books on subjects like law, social sciences, and Paris itself. Dating to the 1870s, its soberly lit wood paneled interior (including a vaulted ceiling) and tables with old-fashioned reading lamps give the whole place a kind of steampunk/dark academia vibe.
Bibliothèque Louise Walser-Gaillard
Located not far from Montmartre, this unassuming public lending library is located inside a former 19th century mansion. As you settle into one of the Bibliothèque Louise Walser-Gaillard’s comfortable plush seats, you can look up and gaze at the beautiful molding and ceiling murals that still remain in one of its largest rooms.
Bibliothèque Historique de la Ville de Paris
Housed in l’Hôtel Lamoignon, a 16th century Marais mansion, the main reading room of the Bibliothèque Historique de la Ville de Paris has painted wooden beams that are an easy reminder of its past, and the perfect place to consult a collection of books, documents, and other resources tied to Paris history.
Most of Paris’s public lending libraries are found in less glamorous locations, and often feature somewhat drab, functional furnishings. Still, whether it’s housed in an architectural masterpiece or just an ordinary building, a Paris public library might just be the perfect place to find your next read—or simply a moment of calm in an otherwise busy city.
Alysa Salzberg is an American writer, worrier, teacher, travel planner, and cookie enthusiast who’s lived in Paris, France, for nearly two decades. Author of Hearts at Dawn, a historical fantasy novel set during the 1870-1871 Siege of Paris, she often shares things she loves about life and history in the City of Light on her blog here, and on Instagram @lamarquisedecarabas.
