When thinking about Provence, in the south of France, one envisions endless fields of lavender, slowly sipping rosé at outdoor cafes in the golden sunshine, and foraging brocantes for ancient hidden treasures. But every year, swarms of visitors from all around the world come to this region, crowding out some of its more popular towns and cities. Thankfully, there are still plenty of hidden gems in Provence that provide an authentic, charming experience for travelers looking for a quiet, relaxing French vacation.
1. Banon
Located in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence department, Banon is a lovely village best known for producing a goat cheese of the same name, which is wrapped in dried chestnut leaves and bound together with a string of thin raffia. This little, unassuming cheese holds a big title, though, as it was the first fromage (and one of only two) in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region that holds an AOC, or Appellation d’origine contrôlée. When planning a visit, make sure to check the calendar; the town’s Fête du Fromage takes place every May, and this specialty is front and center!
Banon is also a haven for book lovers. The village was the setting for the classic short story, “The Man Who Planted Trees,” by Jean Giono, which brings many readers to Banon just to follow in its main character’s footsteps. While there check out Le Bleuet, known as one of France’s largest independent bookstores, whose shelves are lined with over 100,000 books!
After perusing these bookshelves, make your way to the vieux ville by wandering upwards, above the bustling town center. From there, you will come upon the Place du Portail, or the old entrance to the ancient quartier of town. Walk through this vaulted passage and continue your ascent through the narrow cobbled streets, passing beautiful 14th century stone homes. At the top of the climb, you will be greeted with the Church of Saint Mark, an église in the Romanesque style, dating back to the 1650s. The space holds art exhibitions in the summer, allowing visitors a shady, cool stop, and an excellent location from which to take in the sweeping views. While admiring the surrounding landscapes below, make sure to keep an eye out for paragliders. Year round their vibrant parachutes dot the sky, adding splashes of color to the deep green ridges and mountains encircling the town. Looking for an incredible view and adventure while visiting? Sign up for a tandem flight and see Provence like many only dream!
After exploring, wander down back into the heart of town and find a table at La Table de Panturle, where chef and owner Antoine Rippe fuses his extensive travels and experience with the fresh and flavorful offerings of Provence. His travels through Bora-Bora, Quebec, and Scotland, as well as his work alongside Michelin-starred chefs in and around France, all influence the food at La Table de Panturle, making this restaurant the perfect place to end to your magical exploration in Banon.
How to get to Banon
About an hour and twenty minutes from Aix-en-Provence via the A51or D5, Banon is the perfect day trip for any visitor looking to indulge in a slower, less touristy side of Provence. Visitors can also take the D950 North West from Forcalquier for a more picturesque view. This route follows one of the most beautiful roads in Provence, the “Route de la Lavande,” which is lined with large, purple puffs of lavender from the end of spring through midsummer, when the fragrant buds are harvested.
2. Saignon
Known as the village of three châteaux, it’s easy to see why so many lords in the town’s history wanted the prime real estate the location afforded them. The village of Saignon is perched up high over the Luberon, with views stretching as far as Avignon on clearer days, making it perfect for surveilling the region.
Wander the sleepy paths and let yourself get lost in a maze of beautifully imperfect homes dating back centuries. Art enthusiasts will also enjoy perusing the Galerie Kamila Regent, named for the local artist who left her mark on the town and local art scene. Here, visitors will find a mix of art from Kamila herself, plus that of other artists in residency.
As the light begins to shift and the sun begins to set, make your way further up, into one of the oldest parts of Saignon. Here you will find Un Jardin Sur Le Toit, a Provençal-styled restaurant that is located on the remains of one of the three châteaux, the castle of Crugiere. With a reasonably priced fixed menu and an outstanding patio overlooking all of Saignon, this restaurant is the perfect location for an enchanting sunset apèro and unparalleled dinner experience.
How to get to Saignon
Take the D943 from Aix-en-Provence heading north and you will be rewarded with the picturesque hilltop village of Saignon in about an hour.
3. Crestet
The village of Crestet sits at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail mountain range, making the area a paradise for hikers and climbers.
Wine enthusiasts will appreciate a stop at the Chêne Bleu, an eco-luxury retreat that invites guests staying on site or just visiting for the day to sample their wines, or partake in one of their exclusive vino-tourism experiences. No visit to Crestet is complete without making your way all the way to the top of the village. There you will not only be greeted with absolutely jaw dropping views of Vaucluse and Mont Ventoux, but the remnants of the village’s château, dating back to the 9th century. While the château isn’t open for tours and is now privately owned, one can still have a sneak peek inside the fully restored structure here, and admire the stunning work of world renowned architect, Roger Anger.
For another off-the-beaten-path experience centered around incredible architecture, take the GR footpath located in the upper-section of the village. As you trek through the Haut du Crestet Forest, you will stumble upon what was once the Stahly Foundation, a collection of brutalist-style, cement buildings designed by famed-French sculptor François Stahly and constructed by his son and architect, Bruno Stahly. The structures were used as not only his family home, but a space to welcome a rotating cast of artists who would collaborate on projects with Stahly and his wife. After Stahly’s death, the property was purchased in the mid 80s by the Ministry of Culture before being left abandoned and vacant. The decaying plot has recently been purchased and is now privately owned, but taking a peek at these sharp, cement cubes piercing up through the French forest is definitely worth the hike when exploring Crestet.
How to get to Crestet
Follow the D942 from Avignon and then connect to the D938 to arrive at Crestet in a little under an hour.
4. Vaison-la-Romaine
Named for the multiple Roman ruins located within the town, Vaison-la-Romaine is a historian’s dream. Located at the top of the Provence region, the village is just far enough to keep the swarms of visitors away and still feel like a complete secret. The town itself is broken up into two parts, split apart by the Ouvèze river. Park on the “younger” side of the village, which dates back to the 15th century, and cross over the first century Roman bridge to continue your ascent to the haute-ville on the older side of the town. After exploring the château ruins and the church of Sainte-Marie-de-l’Assomption, head back down and make your way to the tourist office, which doubles at the ticketing counter for the Roman ruins archeological site. Explore the unearthed ruins of a once prosperous quarter of an ancient town, and immerse yourself in the history of the Romans in Provence.
Visiting on a Tuesday? Make sure to bring your market bags! Vaison’s market, dating back to the 1400s, is one of the largest in the Provence region, with around 500 stalls in the peak summer season.
After a day of archeological excavation, head to Chez Mon Bèou for a traditional Provençal meal. The restaurant features a rotating menu based on the season, full of simple, homey dishes.
How to get to Vaison-la-Romaine
Take the D938 and D942 from Avignon to reach Vaison in about an hour. Since Crestet is only a ten minute drive back in the direction of Avignon, I suggest pairing your visit to Vaison with a stop there before or after.
5. Sault
The village of Sault is known as Provence’s lavender capital. Visitors looking for the perfect, lavender-filled Provençal expedition can start by following the lavender route, a three-mile stroll through vibrant fields that takes around an hour and a half to complete. The walk is labeled as “easy,” allowing visitors an enjoyable and accessible outdoor adventure. The route is dotted with plaques, educating visitors on topics such as the cultivation and distillation of lavender, and the differences between the many varieties of the flower.
If possible, make sure to plan your visit to Sault around August 15, the town’s annual lavender festival and harvest day.
Sault also is known for having multiple lavender distilleries, welcoming guests to tour the facilities while indulging in numerous products produced at the location. Aroma’Plantes offers numerous experiences for guests, including a class on how to make lavender infused soap, and one on how to make a traditional fuseau (freshly picked lavender woven together with ribbon, which is given as a gift for birthdays or weddings).
After getting your fill of lavender, make your way up to Sault’s village center. Situated on an elevated ridge, Sault is home to stunning views which showcase the colorful valley below. From there, you can wander into the village for a visit to the André Boyer confectionery shop. The store specializes in lavender honey nougat, but also offers regional favorites such as calissons, nougatine, and other Provençal specialties.
Housed on the grounds of the old château stables, O Pichoun is the perfect stop for a home-cooked Provençal lunch, with stunning views of rolling lavender fields and Mont Ventoux from their terrasse.
Looking to explore the area in a different way? Whether you’re looking for a leisurely ride through Sault or more of a challenge, Albion Cycles has a range of bikes to rent for leisure or sport. Sault is known for being the start of the third route up the famous biking circuit of Mont Ventoux, drawing bike enthusiasts from all over the world.
How to get to Sault
From Avignon, visitors can take the D942 or D1 to reach Sault in a little over an hour. Banon is only a 30 minute drive from Sault via the D950, making the two villages a perfect pairing for a day trip of charming villages!
