For those who love the South of France, compiling a brief of list of foods to try can seem impossible. The South is a gastronomic paradise, rich in produce, fine wines, and a culinary tradition that marries the best of land and sea. Narrowing down your must-try bucket list to a single city like Marseille is one way to make things less daunting—but this Mediterranean city, with its roots tracing back 2,500 years, has its own nearly-endless array of unique flavors that beg to be explored.
The plethora of dishes and drinks to be discovered in Marseille are a result of its location. As an ancient port city, known as Massalia when it was founded by the Greeks in 600 BCE, Marseille’s cuisine has been influenced by the visitors and tradespeople who have come to its shores for centuries. Traditional North African fare, such as couscous, tajine, and orange-blossom-perfumed treats, is plentiful. Biscotti-like croquants aux amandes and delicious pizza—best served out of food trucks—abound, thanks to neighboring Italy. And Provençal specialties from rosé to ratatouille can be found in every corner of the city.
However, there are a few local dishes that have to be tasted for you to fully appreciate Marseille and its environs. Here are the most famous dishes in Marseille, and the restaurants and bakeries where you can enjoy them.
What to Eat in Marseille
1. Panisse
Panisse is a snack or side dish made from chickpea flour, water, olive oil, and a pinch of salt. It starts with dough that is cooked until it reaches a thick, creamy consistency, and is then poured into molds to set. Once firm, it is sliced into batons and fried until golden and crispy on the outside, while remaining tender and creamy inside.
La Boîte à Panisse (23 rue Caisserie) is true to its name, and a favorite spot for locals and tourists alike who want to nibble on panisse and enjoy a glass of rosé. For those looking to enjoy panisse and shop for other specialty foods, L’Épicerie L’Idéal (11 Rue D’aubagne) is perfect for perusing. And for those wanting to test as many panisse locations as possible, exploring restaurants and traiteurs in the Quartier de l’Estaque, where panisse originated from, is ideal.
2. Aïoli
Aïoli, a garlic-olive oil emulsion sauce found across Catalonia and the South of France, varies depending on where you are, but the mayonnaise-like Provençal version is the one you’re probably the most familiar with. Traditionally, aïoli is served as part of a grand platter known as “Le Grand Aïoli,” featuring boiled vegetables, salt cod, hard-boiled eggs, and even snails. The rich sauce ties together these simple ingredients, resulting in a dish that is hearty, satisfying, and rooted in local customs.
Want to combine sightseeing with food tourism? Look no further than Le Restaurant de Notre Dame de la Garde (rue fort du Sanctuaire), inside the mammoth Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde. The majority of the menu is prepared by the nuns of the basilica, and though its original intent was to feed those coming to pray or worship, it is open and accessible to all. Their famous Grand Aïoli is served on Fridays, and is not to be missed.
3. Navettes
Navettes are small gondola-shaped biscuits traditionally flavored with orange blossom water. These biscuits have a special place in Marseille’s history, as they are closely associated with the celebration of La Chandeleur, or Candlemas. The texture is slightly hard and crunchy, and the flavor is delicate, with the orange blossom providing a subtle floral flavor.
To taste the best navettes in Marseille, head straight to Four des Navettes (136 Rue Sainte), the oldest bakery in the city, which has been making these crunchy concoctions since 1781. The recipe has remained unchanged for centuries, and is the perfect blend of not-too-sweet crispy dough and delicate fleur d’oranger.
4. Bouillabaisse
Bouillabaisse is Marseille’s most famous dish, a hearty fish stew that reflects the city’s close relationship with the sea. Though the exact ingredients are widely disputed, the stew is traditionally made with at least three types of fish, such as red rascasse, sea robin, and European conger, along with shellfish, vegetables, and a medley of Provençal herbs. The dish is served with a side of rouille, a spicy saffron and garlic mayonnaise, which is spread on toast or croutons.
For an unforgettable bouillabaisse experience, steer clear of touristy restaurants around the Vieux-Port. Instead, pay a visit to Restaurant Le Peron (56 Corniche Président John Fitzgerald Kennedy) for a traditional-yet-refined take on this classic dish. The restaurant is perched on a clifftop, and the view of the Mediterranean Sea is the perfect backdrop for enjoying a serving of bouillabaisse. Right down the coastline is also Le Rhul (269B Corniche Président John Fitzgerald Kennedy), a local favorite known for its authentic, generously portioned bouillabaisse.
5. Fougasse aux Olives
Fougasse is a type of flatbread similar to focaccia that is often filled with olives, herbs, or even anchovies. The bread has a crisp crust and a soft, chewy interior, with the olives adding a burst of flavor in every bite. It’s perfect as a sandwich substitute for lunch, or sliced into small bites to be enjoyed during a pre-dinner apéritif.
For some of the best fougasse aux olives in Marseille, try locations like Maison Elyse (63 avenue du 24 Avril 1915) or L’Art de la Viennoiserie (67 avenue de Montredon). Both addresses have this savory bread in stock, as well as other local specialties.
6. Poutargue
This salted, cured fish roe, which also goes by the name bottarga or boutargue and is eaten in Corsica and Italy, is an acquired taste, but a true delicacy for seafood lovers. Sometimes referred to as “poor man’s caviar,” it’s delicious thinly sliced or shaved over pastas, pizzas, and more.
Although found in numerous specialty grocery stores, stop by Boutargue Meyer (90 rue d’Italie) to shop for poutargue and other smoked fish.
7. Brousse du Rove
This fresh, tangy goat cheese is a must-try for cheese enthusiasts. Made from raw milk from chèvre du Rove, brousse is soft, liquidy, and similar to both cottage cheese and cream cheese.
Many local restaurants often serve it topped with lavender-infused honey or fruit. But the best place to discover it for yourself is at a fromagerie or farmer’s market, like Le Cours Julien (metro Notre-Dame du Mont).
8. Mauresque
In between sips of rosé, locals enjoy this Mediterranean-inspired cocktail. Mauresque is a popular local apéritif made from pastis, an anise-flavored spirit that is strongly associated with Marseille, and often enjoyed as an accompaniment to a game of pétanque. In this drink, it is mixed with almondy orgeat syrup, offering a sweet and slightly bitter start to any meal.
This traditional cocktail can be enjoyed city-wide, but should you want a drink with a view, try Café de l’Abbaye (3 rue d’Endoume), which overlooks the city and sea.
Kimberly Zerkel is a writer and author. After having lived in Paris for over a decade and San Francisco for several years, she now resides in her Missouri hometown. More of her writing can be discovered at www.kimberlyzerkel.com.
