Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, the small town at the base of the French Alps, is a global destination for winter sports. People come from all over the world to ski and snowboard here, and you’ll also catch folks snowshoeing, ice skating, and mushing along the flat, snowy expanses between mountains. This is a place where hardcore athletes and outdoor adventurers come to push the limits of gravity and human ability, whether that means camping overnight on top of a glacier, or propelling down a mountain on skis from a height of twelve thousand feet.
But what if you don’t have any interest in playing these kinds of reindeer games? What if you prefer to stick to the “après” part of après-ski, and feel more comfortable calling a Lyft than dangling your feet from a lift? Can you still have a good time in Chamonix if you don’t plan on skiing?
The answer is, absolutely. On a recent trip to Chamonix this winter, I passed a majestic four days without donning skis once—and you can, too.
From the get-go, it’s worth saying that the spectacular scenery is worth the trip in its own right. The tiny, charming town of Chamonix is surrounded on all sides by snow-capped mountains, cutting a stark contrast against the clear blue skies beyond. Crunching your way through the powder-dusted streets, the wooden chalets iced like gingerbread houses, you can’t help but feel like you’re inside of a snow globe. And when the sun begins to set behind the Alps, the soft light and rich colors spreading across the landscape are nothing short of magical.
If that’s not enough to convince you, here are a few things you can do to entertain yourself in Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, sans skis.
Things to Do in Chamonix (That Aren’t Skiing)
Party All Night at Après-Ski
Let’s skip to the good part, i.e., après-ski. Chamonix’s nightlife really hits its peak during ski season, running the gamut from elegant wine bars to rowdy pubs. In the winter, the town is flooded with British tourists on weekend ski trips, and they tend to bring a certain level of debauchery to the otherwise laid-back French bar scene. On a Friday or Saturday night, dive bars and clubs along the Rue des Moulins are packed with young people blowing off steam after a long day on the slopes, with the party spilling out onto the sidewalk even in sub-freezing weather. If that sounds like a little much for you, the rest of the town offers a variety of venues to serve every vibe.
Go to the Top of the World at the Aiguille du Midi
The Aiguille du Midi, which translates to “Midday Needle,” is part of the Mont Blanc massif, and reaches an astonishing height of 3,842 meters (12,605 feet). It can be reached via cable car in two stages, with one stopping at a landing part of the way up, and the second going all the way to the peak. This is the highest point you can reach in France unless you intend to embark on some hardcore mountaineering up nearby Mont Blanc. As the town shrinks and you pass above cloud level, even those without a fear of heights will feel their stomach drop out from under them. To call the views unparalleled feels trite in light of the pure wonder that is unlocked when you look out over the Alps, everything you know left over two miles below.
Once you’ve ascended, you can wander through the research center at the peak, which offers scientific exhibitions, panoramic windows with views of the mountains, a restaurant, a skybox, and numerous terraces where you can step outside and enjoy the sights. Be warned that it can be extremely windy up there, and the cable car may not always be in operation in case of inclement weather. So dress warm, and hold on tight to your phone when you’re taking pictures!
Tickets to the Aiguille du Midi cost 78€, and can be purchased online or at the ticket office in central Chamonix.
Walk Inside a Glacier at the Mer de Glace
The largest glacier in France, the Mer de Glace, can be reached in as little as half an hour from Chamonix’s center, via the Train du Montenvers, a charming little red train that winds its way up into the mountains. Once you disembark, you can view the glacier, which spans much of the valley below, or even enjoy a coffee on the terrace overlooking it. From there, you can take a short gondola ride down into the valley and wander inside the glacier itself, which includes various ice sculptures designed for photo opportunities.
You can purchase a ticket for the entire experience, including the train ride, on the Mer de Glace website for 39,50€.
Enjoy Cozy Alpine Cuisine in World Class Restaurants
Alpine food is typically a hearty affair, designed to fortify the body after it has trekked through the snow and the mountains. Fondue, raclette, and tartiflette can be found just about anywhere, cheesy and irresistibly delicious. Make a reservation somewhere like La Fine Bouche, whose fantastic fondue is served with a dressed salad, cornichons, and pickled pearl onions, with a side of charcuterie if you prefer. (You should!)
Seasonal menus featuring things like game meat are also quite common in the region. Le Comptoir des Alpes is a great place to enjoy innovative cuisine centered on local ingredients, with a killer wine list to boot. But my absolute favorite place to eat in Chamonix is Ô Garde-Manger, a warm and lively wine bar offering small plates and a meat-forward menu. The bone marrow topped with bottarga is not to be missed, and you simply can’t leave without ending your meal with a glass (or glace!) of Chartreuse.
Take a Spa Day with a View
Why freeze your butt off climbing mountains when you can appreciate them from the comfort of a relaxing hot tub? Chamonix has a number of fabulous spas where you can warm up in a sauna or hammam, get a massage, and go for a swim. The most famous of these is QC Terme, which is known for its outdoor thermal pool and jacuzzis with a fantastic view of Mont Blanc. Since the spa only offers day passes, why not go for a self-care day with all the amenities?
Daytime entry costs 84€, while massages start at 58€. Evening and nighttime entry is also available at a slight discount.
Catherine Rickman is a writer, professional Francophile, and host of the Expat Horror Stories podcast. She is currently somewhere in Brooklyn with a fork in one hand and a pen in the other, and you can follow her adventures on Instagram @catrickman.
